Method of manufacturing shoes



(No'ModeL) 3 Sheets- Sheet 1. G. W. GASTON.

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES.

No. 397,488. Patented Feb. 12, 1889.

PETE

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2. G. W. GASTON.

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES.

Paten ted Feb. 12,1889.

fi s \NVENTU N PETERs. PholO-Lllhagmphcr. Washington, D c.

(No Model.)

. 3 Sheets-Sheet 3. G. W. CAST-0N.

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES.

Patented Feb. 12 1889.

IIIJI/IIIIIII \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\V.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ NVENTU wel.

ITN ESSES @mflz: flame N, PETERS, Fllotnullwgmpher, Wulhlnglcm. D C.

ivrrnn STATES PATENT tries.

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 397,488, dated February 12, 1889. Application filed June 9, 1838. Serial No. 276,547. (No model.)

i made of a fibrous material, woven, braided,

or felted, lined with fleece of wool, and said sole preferably is attached to a sole and heel of leather.

The purpose of this invention is to stiffen the upper of the shoe at and around its heel portion without otherwise impairing its flexibility and pliability or affecting the soft cushion-like character of or subjecting the lining to undue wear.

To this end the invention consists of a method of manufacture substantially as folv lows: To the upper and sole of the shoe, otherwise suitably made and turned inside out, an d at and about their heel portion, is first applied a covering of corresponding shape, made of elastic india-rubber, and then over this covering a lining of corresponding shape, made of woolen cloth, which is stitched or otherwise suitably secured to the upper, but out side of the edges of said rubber covering, thus inclosingbut not attaching said covering. The shoe, covered and lined at its heel portion, as stated, is now lined with a fleece of wool, and this lining is secured by stitching or quilting it, in the usual manner or otherwise, to the shoe, except at the part of the shoe previously covered and lined, as stated, where the fleece lining is secured by stitching or quilting it or otherwise to said cloth lining, the inclosed rubber covering acting as a guard or protector against the stitches, dzc, being entered into the shoe. The fleece and cloth linings of the shoe are now split from the sole upward, the shoe is turned right side out, and the inclosed india-rubber covering is removed through said slit, and in place thereof the heel counter or stiffener of leather is inserted and attached to the sole of the shoe by nails or otherwise, and preferably at the same time that a leather sole is attached, and the slit of the cloth and fleece linings is stitched or otherwise closed, completing the shoe.

In the drawings forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is aperspective View of the fibrous upper and sole of this invention. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the india-rubber covering to be placed about the inside of the heel portion of the shoe, Fig. l, to guard and protect it against the entrance of the stitches, &c., by which the fleece lining is afterward attached to the shoe. Fig. is a perspective of the shoe, Fig. 1, turned inside out and showing the rubber covering, Fig. 2, applied to the heel portion. Fig. 4 is a face view of a blank from which to make the cloth lining for the heel portion of the shoe, and Fig. 5 is a perspective view of this lining applied over and stitched to the shoe outside of the edges of the rubber covering. Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the shoe lined with the fleece of wool. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the heel portion of the shoe, Fig. (5, and its fleece and cloth linings slit for the removal. of the inclosed rubber guard or covering. Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the leather counter or heel stiffener for the shoe. Fig. 9 is a central longitudinal section of the shoe with the counter, Fig. 8, inserted between the cloth lining and inner side of the shoe; and Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig 9, with the counter, leather sole, and heel attached to the shoe and the shoe complete.

In the drawings the shoe illustrated has a sole, A and upper A, all made of fibrous materialsuch as woolwoven, braided, or felted, and as awhole constitutinga complete covering for the foot. B is the lining, of wool or other suitable fibrous material in the form of fleece.

C is the counter or heel stiffener, made of leather or other suitable material.

D is the lining, of cloth or other suit-able flexible material, between the fleece lining B and counter O, and F is the leather sole, having a heel, G.

The fleece lining B preferably is stitched or quilted; but it may be otherwise secured to the inside of the shoe A A and at all portions thereof, except the portion embraced by the cloth lining D, to which it is similarly or the leather sole at itsheel to the shoe, as well known. Again, the leather sole at its other portions is secured to the sole A of the footcovering by stitches, or by any other suitable means and as well known, and preferably such that the means of fastening shall cause minimum annoyance and uneasiness to the wearer and affect or detract from the soft and cushion-like qualities of the fleece lining to the slightest degree.

The counter O imparts stiffness to the heel portion of the shoe, and the cloth lining interposed between it and the fleece lining protects the fleece lining against undue wear from the counter and preserves the soft cush ion-like character of the fleece to the highest degree, and in substance the whole secures a shoe which practically in every respect is most comfortable and warm and easy to the feet. The leather sole and heel are also a desirable feature in the combination, as

stated. However, they may be dispensed with but it is preferable to provide the shoe with them.

The shoe described forms the subject of a separate application, dated February 23, 1888, for Letters Patent of the United States, and the method of its production is as follows: The shoe A A turned inside out, is first provided at the then outer side of its heel portion with a covering, H, of india-rubber or other material, preferably a material which is elastic, shaped to fit said heel portion. This rubber covering H is simply applied and not attached to the shoe. The cloth lining D, of suitable shape and size to fit the heel portion of the shoe about and to project beyond the edge of said rubber covering, is next placed over the rubber covering and secured to the shoe by stitches d at and along but outside of the edges of the rubber covering. The fleece lining B is now applied and secured in place upon the shoe and its said cloth lining by stitching or quilting it or otherwise to the shoe and said cloth lining and the interposed and inelosed rubber covering. The fleece and cloth linings B D are now slit, as at J, Fig. '7, 3 from the sole upward along practically the 5 center line of the heel portion of the shoe, and the shoe turned right side out. Then having 1 removed the rubber covering H from the shoe through the slit of the fleece and cloth linings, the counter C is inserted through said slit and placed between the cloth lining D and the shoe, and attached to the sole of the shoe by nails or other suitable fastenings, or otherwise, in any suitable manner, but preferably by'nails, and those attaching the leather sole F and heel G to the shoe, and as well known.

. The remaining portion of the leather sole is attached to the sole of the shoe by sewing or otherwise, suitably and preferably as stated, and having preferably secured by stitches, or otherwise suitably, the edges of the slit J of the fleece and cloth linings together the manufacture of the shoe is completed.

As the rubber covering H is practically impenetrable to the needle used in stitching the fleece lining in place, it thus guards the material making the outside of the shoe against being stitched to the fleece and cloth linings in the stitching of the fleece lining to the cloth lining, and on its removal, as stated. Consequently the heel-stiffener or counter can I be freely placed in its position between the material making the outside of the shoe and the cloth lining.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

For the manufacture of shoes having an up- 1 per and sole of fibrous material braided, woven,

or felted, constituting in itself a complete foot- 1 covering, and having a fleece lining and an inside counter or heel-stiffener separated from the fleece lining by an interposed flexible lining, the method, substantially as herein described, the same consisting in turning the shoe inside out and applying but not attaching thereto at its heel portion a covering of india-rubber or other suitable material, and then applying over this covering the flexible lining, suitably securing the fleece lining to the shoe and the flexible lining, and slitting said linings, turning the shoe right side out and removing through said slit said rubber covering, and inserting the counter or heelstiffener between the shoe and flexible lining and securing it to the shoe-sole, substantially as described. I

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing witn'esses.

GEO. WV. GASTON.

Witnesses:

ALBERT W. BROWN, FRANCES M. BROWN. 

